Montone: A Tiny Jewel
Sometimes a slow day is just what you need. A lazy morning where you don’t get out the door until lunchtime. Or a relaxing day by the pool with an easy evening aperitivo and dinner out. If you are looking for that slow day adventure -- with striking valley views and good food (for lunch or dinner) -- Montone is our recommendation.
Montone is a traditional hill town in miniature, perched on a small hilltop just north of Umbertide. With sweeping views of the valley on all sides and the snowcapped Apennines in the distance, this picture postcard town is easily walkable. You can wander inside the stone walls from end to end, top to bottom in an hour and then dine in one of Montone’s four very good restaurants: Erba Luna, Taverna del Verziere, Antica Osteria di Montone, Tipico Osteria dei Sensi (A Slow Food restaurant). Just outside the lower gate is Il Mugnaio, a casual neighborhood bakery with focaccia-style pizza by the slice. The Aries Café and Bar in the main piazza is the spot for gelato, coffee or a spritz. Outside the upper gate you will find L’Infernaccio, a wine bar with cozy tables inside the old walls or outside overlooking the valley.
For art and history, the former Convent of San Francesco houses the small but impressive Civic Museum which includes paintings, frescoes, ceramics, sculpture and archeological finds from the excavations of a nearby roman villa. On the walk up to the museum stop and visit La Lucciola (The Firefly), a large metal sculpture created by Mark Wholey, one of Altabella’s original partners.
At the top of town are the remains of the old fortress, the ancient Rocca di Braccio. Montone’s long history includes the well-known Italian condottiere, (mercenary general), Andrea Fortebraccio (1368-1424), who fought with and against many of Italy’s great houses. The fortress is now used for music and theatrical events.
Every July, Montone hosts the Umbria Film Festival and in late October, one of our favorite festivals, the Festa del Bosco. During the year Montone hosts several traditional medieval reenactments, cultural events and a blacksmithing festival. It is always worth checking with our concierge to see if your visit coincides with one. In any season, this tiny jewel is worth a visit.
The Civic Museum hours are seasonal. Check the website for details.
(30 minutes north of Altabella)
